Wednesday 23 May 2007

New Zealand : Auckland - Waiheke Island

Landing in a new country at 4am having crossed the time and date line means you miss out a whole day in your life and get to know the internal workings of the airport for a few wee hours with a thumping head - mmn, jet lag! Once Auckland was rubbing its eyes awake we had a very informative taxi ride to Hotel Duxton, right in downtown, provided by a chatty Kiwi seik. The hotel was a revelation as we had our own kitchen and washing machine in our room and the chance to cook our first meal for three months. Bliss!

Auckland is a pretty and compact city, a similar size to Reading (admittedly on the large side of pretty and oceanside), but with more Asians, especially Koreans! Every second person was Korean who we found out were there for English language courses (cheapest place in the world to conjugate) and to work in every shop and cafe within the city's environs. So far quite an unusual introduction to this far flung haven of the British Commonwealth. We spent a gut churning few hours 190 metres above the city in the Sky Tower, feeling a little nauseous each time a fearless sky jumper hurtled past our noses at the speed of extreme light (they throw themselves off the tower attached to a wire from just above the cafe) The views were outstanding and gave us a sparkling geographical summary of this welcoming city. The viewing map included the Coromandel peninsula and the youthful volcanic islands in the harbour - which was our first introduction to Waheike where Mike and Karen have settled after leaving England a few years ago. Looking forward to catching up with them as I haven't seen Mike since supping Pimms at Wimbledon 4 or so years ago when he first mentioned NZ as a possibility. We celebrated our arrival with a Thai meal at 'Mai Thai' right next door. Lashings of green curry and a generous helping of Pad Prik.

Met up with Dr Karen who has a health centre in the port area of town, took the chance to moan to Dr Andrew, (one of Karens colleagues) about middle age spread, hair loss and various pains I had in all moving parts of my poor body and got some pills to stop my legs falling off in Starbucks...all is well! We caught a ferry with Karen for the 40 minute ride to Waiheke...and the harbour area of Auckland is stunning. Little volcanic islands poking up from the bay; even a nature reserve slap bang in the middle..striking similarities to the trip from Sydney to Manley. Mike, Karen, Jed (9) and Alfie (7) live in a fabulous architect designed state-of-the-art home overlooking Dead Dog Bay - all those episodes of Grand Designs I had watched intently suddenly rolled into one. We were esconced in the 'weekender' on the far side of the tennis court so we could burp and rest in peace while our hosts went about their daily business, such as going to work and school. The gardens were laid to vineyard below the house and then into gentle forest towards the bay which was deserted and gorgeous. The weather was glorious and walking tracks were trod, fish were caught, wine was tasted at vineyards, and cocktail parties were attended (in camping fleeces that looked a little worse for wear and smelt of fish and bonfires - a new cologne by 'Shabby old Brits'!) At the cocktail party Fo hooked up with a a local island heiress, gorgeously christened Cecily Devine c. 1967. You could hear RR gently cajouling as Gatsby..sisters, five altogether and all Devine we understand!
The local supermarket had a glass cabinet entirely dedicated to green lipped muscles the size of your hand and we sat on a sunny Saturday and ate a bowlful washed down with local wine with Dead Dog Bay drenched in sun below us..this is a kind of paradise Mike and Karen have found with the boys!
A trip in the pick-up around the island revealed more deserted inlets with forset to the shore and stunnng views out into the Pacific ocean. To the south of the island are the remains of the enormous guns built to protect NZ from invasion during WW2, presumably from Japan...wine connoisseurs and sushi chefs one presumes. The guns could fire 28km in a circle although they were never used in anger. Strange to think the Japanese would consider this so strategic. Ironically the town is invaded by Asians now, all desperate to learn English to finish their takeover of the world with Global knives and rehashed Burberry!
We left Waheike after a wonderful week of luxury and pampering - jet lag free and ready for the adventure that is 'En Zed'.

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